[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”section” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row admin_label=”row” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Samarkand.<\/p>\n
Really, this is probably the name that most drew me to thinking about Central Asia back some forty years ago now. As many who know me, I read almost exclusively first-person narrative travel – Travel Lit, and reading about this region has been foremost in much of the library I have built up over time. I have some 300 books of this genre – spanning travel around the globe.<\/p>\n
One such author, that I\u2019ve chosen to bring along on this trip, is Philip Glazebrook and his account of travel here called \u201cJourney to Khiva\u201d – one of the places we\u2019ll visit in a few days. He writes *beautifully* with subtle and surprising turns of phrase that make you stop and look out over the top of the book at the middle distance and smile, nodding your head in understanding and admiration.<\/p>\n
It has still been hot here, no surprise there. In direct sunlight it is easily 40C, but somehow entirely tolerable in the shade with a few sips of water to hand. Our fixer in Tashkent (hereafter, TK) arranged for a guide for today. Dennis is Uzbek-born, but Russian Orthodox. He spoke quickly, knowledgably, and with a thick Russian accent. My reduced hearing is definitely a drawback on this trip. I lost much of what he \u00a0related today and ended up just wandering off and shooting photos while he regaled Harold. That was actually quite fine with me and I am averse to being lectured on things that are A) right in front of me, B) in a thick accent difficult to understand at the best of times and C) being party to the guide’s personal opinions on this and that, which had the ring of opinion vs fact. Plus, quizzing us on factoids now and then that he\u2019d related earlier in the day was a little awkward because I either couldn\u2019t hear him at the time or I felt like I was put on the spot to know something and perhaps verify his job? Not sure.<\/p>\n
At any rate, buckle up. There are quite a few photos I\u2019ve chosen to post here from the day.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC6976.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Just around the corner from our really quite nice family-run guest house.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC6986.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
The fellow welding was just closing his eyes during the actual weld as a method to preserve his sight.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC6996.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Part of the Astronomical observatory of Ulug Begh.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7000.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Guide getting sleepy. It\u2019s a pretty boring job after all.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7006.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Near the burial place of (part of) Daniel from the Old Testament. One of his arms is buried nearby.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7013.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Religious sanctuary (Islamic) near the Daniel site where Sufis who follow separation worship can take time (40 days at a time – family brings food and leaves outside the door).<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7035-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Near the entrance of the Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis. There is a narrow street of these mausoleums, most decorated with tile. Despite the crowds, it was quite a moving place to visit.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7040-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Inside one such mausoleum.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7052-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Another mausoleum interior.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7055-2.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
View from the rear of the Necropolis ‘street’.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7074-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Chinese tourist.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7083-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Street kitty (mother) accepting pats and small scratches under the chin and along her cheek.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7092.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
I sat in this room for a good while. It had AC.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7094-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n
Antechamber seen to the right in the previous photo. The light was amazing and the scatter of denominations in the foreground made for a great composition.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7101-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Russian women Instagramming each other.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7108.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Harold trying to figure out why his camera was shooting so dark. A close look later showed the lens failing and then ceasing. Fortunately he has a second lens.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7117-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Chinese women Instagramming…<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7131-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Construction just outside the Registan – the large collection of Madrassas and Mosque that you\u2019ll see in a minute. I liked the play between the warning tape and the lines on the wall.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7134-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
One minaret at the corner of the Registan.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7143-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Asian tourist who amused me. It looks like he\u2019s waiting while the power cable on the ground is charging him up.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7147-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
The maidan between the two mosques (Shia at left, Sufi at right) and the Madrassa at centre. A madrassa is basically a religious school.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7151-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Sufi mosque (pictured at right, above). Sufi because that sect is less strict than Shia and allows for the depiction of animals and human faces – seen on the facade here above the doorway. Depictions of animals and people is otherwise forbidden in Islam.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7153-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
The Registan Madrassa.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7174.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Steps to the second floor of the Madrassa<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7177-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Harold getting the shot within the courtyard of the Madrassa.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7188-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Prayer spot just inside the Shia mosque within the Registan<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7204-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Mea Culpa: I used Lightroom\u2019s AI component to remove Harold and guide Dennis from this photo:<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7207-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Overhead view of the arch in the previous photo.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7194.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n
View of the inner courtyard of the Gur-i-Amir mosque complex.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7211-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Temur – lionized leader of historical Uzbeks<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7222-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Cell phone light showing the translucency of the quartz used along one wall.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7225-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Ceiling above Amir Temur\u2019s mausoleum<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7234-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Amir Temur’s mausoleum.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7236-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Amir Temur’s mausoleum.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7245-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”left” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Unknown mosque, but I liked the composition.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][et_pb_blurb image=”https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/DSC7254-1.jpg” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” animation_style=”slide” animation_direction=”right” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n
Merchandise for sale outside the Gur-i-Amir mosque.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_blurb][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Samarkand. Really, this is probably the name that most drew me to thinking about Central Asia back some forty years ago now. As many who know me, I read almost exclusively first-person narrative travel – Travel Lit, and reading about this region has been foremost in much of the library I have built up over […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[84,22,82],"tags":[83,80,78],"class_list":["post-5675","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-samarkand","category-travel","category-uzbekistan","tag-samarkand","tag-travel","tag-uzbekistan"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5675","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5675"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5675\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5754,"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5675\/revisions\/5754"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5675"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5675"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.hellum.ca\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5675"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}