El Alamein, The desert at 120kph and coming into Cairo

It should have been clear. It should not have been raining – all day let alone in Egypt at all. But I was profoundly moved by the weather as we stopped first to review the military museum at El Alamein, and then the British and Allies’ War Cemetery. I have been to several war cemeteries, including the Viet Nam memorial in Washington DC which was moving beyond tears and still makes me catch my breath when I think of the small notes to lost soldiers left there in the current day. But the cemetery at El Alamein is a different sort than that, somehow. It is heavier, more certain of its purpose than the Viet Nam memorial in DC. The Allies’ grave sites are there and regretted only for the loss of the 70,000 plus men for their families. For their nations (Britain, New Zealand, Palestine [Israel], Australia…), their purpose in lying there is certain, known. Those men died fighting for what is still regarded as right. Can the same be said of those who died for the US, NZ, OZ… in Viet Nam?

The field is immaculately kept. It is beautiful in its symmetry and repose, its cleanliness. If anyone reading this has visited anywhere in the Middle East, it will be understood that anywhere in the area described as immaculate is almost a contradiction in terms. No such place can be found. Really. Even in 5 star hotels, I observed peeling paint, broken quarter-round along baseboards, and torn awning flapping in the wind. This isn’t to say that such places are poor in upkeep or regard; I was overcome with awe at the existence of observable wealth in those hotels in this country. “Dichotomy” doesn’t even come close to describing the difference between them and the outside world on their collective doorsteps. But the El Alamein Cemetery was serene, deeply sad, and … I guess “certain” is the best word I can think of to describe it. It knows why it is there. Perhaps the most poignant markers in that field of utter poignancy, are the stones which state simply: “A soldier of the 1939-1945 War – Known unto God”. Even the life of those soldiers is little more than a collective nod in their direction; a reverent and deeply thankful nod. I was humbled and thankful for those men. Greater than I shall they ever be.

Evidence of my nation in that particular conflict (the battles for El Alamein and Tobruk), was scarce. There was a Canadian flag among the half dozen Allied flags in the Museum, and notation of the Canadian contribution of Ford armoured trucks (see truck below). Due to eventual pelting rain, I was unable to more thoroughly examine the stones in the cemetery itself, but I do believe I would have come across Canadian casualties buried there. Historians might correct me on this, however.

Following that quiet walk through the Allied cemetery, we soberly climbed back into our waiting minibus to continue the drive back to Cairo. To my surprise, we saw the pyramids of the Giza plateau (Khufu, Khafre, Menkaure) off in the distance as we drove through the outskirts of the city and became ensnarled in rush hour traffic. The drive through Cairo to reach our hotel in Zamalek (The President Hotel) took almost as long as the drive from the Cemetery to Cairo itself.

We will race out to the Dashur group of pyramids tomorrow morning (at my request), stopping again at Giza on the way back as we were able to only spend a little time there at the outset of our journey to this country. I remember the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid at Dashur as being lovely in that they truly edge the desert (unlike the group at Giza). It is pristine and open and quiet at Dashur. And I shot some lovely BW negs there 12 years ago. “In’sha’allah” I will have good weather tomorrow morning for photography.