Edge of the Kyzyl Kum Desert.

(“Keezeel Koom”)

Finally, we felt ourselves out and seeing some places first hand that have not been manicured for western eyes. We drove for about 90min each way to the edge of the desert. Thank goodness it’s cooled down to the low 30sC. Not sure I could have managed today in 40C heat.

But yes, crumblies, as expected at the sites – knowing in advance they buit only with mud bricks in antiquity (here, 4thC BCE). Surely they knew at the time of the transience of such materiel? Makes one wonder how long they anticipated inhabiting these two fortresses (and, presumably, others). It took some imagination now and then to see outlnes of walls and structures. Ayaz Qala, in particular, seemed little more than mud mounds with vague outlines of something man-made. Our guide today was just lovely. She listened carefully to questions I’m sure she’s heard a hundred times before and took care to be present but not intrusive. Quiet spells were fine as we gazed around us and gawped for breath after only climbing 60m up a path to Ayaz Qala. I later gave her my camera bad to test for weight and she threw me a look of alarm. “No wonder you looked tired out there today!”.

So the photos below are boring, overall, but will give you some idea of the day.

We did have a lovely lunch on the way back, stopping in the city of Urgench (pop 2M). It was a first for me to sit on a raised platform under a super-short table, where you are supposed to fold your legs under you. Harold and I were cackling at each other after lunch and finding it hard to walk. I felt like Roy Rogers after a 40 day ride, rocking side to side and we shambled back to the car.

There are very few to really no motocycles in Uzbekistan. There is the odd scooter and even a few motorized wheelchairs in cities, but no motorcycles. I asked about this once, and the Uzbek turned up his nose and said everyone thinks they are too noisy and smell bad. That was a refreshing point of view. There have been a few more dogs to see here and there, once we left Tashkent about a million years ago. But by far there are more cats. And many Uzbeks have them as house pets! Had not expected that. Perhaps it is for addressing a rodent issue, but I have seen Uzbeks stop, smile and pet strays outside. My people!

No, I didn’t get on this camel. Good heavens, what sort of janky tourist do you take me for?

Sevara

The only road in and out to Ayaz Qala:

So reminded of Red River carts from Alberta pioneer days. The wheels here are dished a little, being slightly more convex on the outside, Two reasons: on long journeys a wheel can be quickly removed to serve as a table for many to sit around and also several can be bound together as a raft when crossing a river. Which reminds me: we crossed the Amur Darya river twice today! One of the great, fabled rivers of Central Asia that I have read so much about. I was amazed to see it in person.

Sevara, once more.