Samarkand.
Really, this is probably the name that most drew me to thinking about Central Asia back some forty years ago now. As many who know me, I read almost exclusively first-person narrative travel – Travel Lit, and reading about this region has been foremost in much of the library I have built up over time. I have some 300 books of this genre – spanning travel around the globe.
One such author, that I’ve chosen to bring along on this trip, is Philip Glazebrook and his account of travel here called “Journey to Khiva” – one of the places we’ll visit in a few days. He writes *beautifully* with subtle and surprising turns of phrase that make you stop and look out over the top of the book at the middle distance and smile, nodding your head in understanding and admiration.
It has still been hot here, no surprise there. In direct sunlight it is easily 40C, but somehow entirely tolerable in the shade with a few sips of water to hand. Our fixer in Tashkent (hereafter, TK) arranged for a guide for today. Dennis is Uzbek-born, but Russian Orthodox. He spoke quickly, knowledgably, and with a thick Russian accent. My reduced hearing is definitely a drawback on this trip. I lost much of what he related today and ended up just wandering off and shooting photos while he regaled Harold. That was actually quite fine with me and I am averse to being lectured on things that are A) right in front of me, B) in a thick accent difficult to understand at the best of times and C) being party to the guide’s personal opinions on this and that, which had the ring of opinion vs fact. Plus, quizzing us on factoids now and then that he’d related earlier in the day was a little awkward because I either couldn’t hear him at the time or I felt like I was put on the spot to know something and perhaps verify his job? Not sure.
At any rate, buckle up. There are quite a few photos I’ve chosen to post here from the day.
Just around the corner from our really quite nice family-run guest house.
The fellow welding was just closing his eyes during the actual weld as a method to preserve his sight.
Part of the Astronomical observatory of Ulug Begh.
Guide getting sleepy. It’s a pretty boring job after all.
Near the burial place of (part of) Daniel from the Old Testament. One of his arms is buried nearby.
Religious sanctuary (Islamic) near the Daniel site where Sufis who follow separation worship can take time (40 days at a time – family brings food and leaves outside the door).
Near the entrance of the Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis. There is a narrow street of these mausoleums, most decorated with tile. Despite the crowds, it was quite a moving place to visit.
Inside one such mausoleum.
Another mausoleum interior.
View from the rear of the Necropolis ‘street’.
Chinese tourist.
Street kitty (mother) accepting pats and small scratches under the chin and along her cheek.
I sat in this room for a good while. It had AC.
Antechamber seen to the right in the previous photo. The light was amazing and the scatter of denominations in the foreground made for a great composition.
Russian women Instagramming each other.
Harold trying to figure out why his camera was shooting so dark. A close look later showed the lens failing and then ceasing. Fortunately he has a second lens.
Chinese women Instagramming…
Construction just outside the Registan – the large collection of Madrassas and Mosque that you’ll see in a minute. I liked the play between the warning tape and the lines on the wall.
One minaret at the corner of the Registan.
Asian tourist who amused me. It looks like he’s waiting while the power cable on the ground is charging him up.
The maidan between the two mosques (Shia at left, Sufi at right) and the Madrassa at centre. A madrassa is basically a religious school.
Sufi mosque (pictured at right, above). Sufi because that sect is less strict than Shia and allows for the depiction of animals and human faces – seen on the facade here above the doorway. Depictions of animals and people is otherwise forbidden in Islam.
The Registan Madrassa.
Steps to the second floor of the Madrassa
Harold getting the shot within the courtyard of the Madrassa.
Prayer spot just inside the Shia mosque within the Registan
Mea Culpa: I used Lightroom’s AI component to remove Harold and guide Dennis from this photo:
Overhead view of the arch in the previous photo.
View of the inner courtyard of the Gur-i-Amir mosque complex.
Inside the mausoleum of Amir Temur – lionized leader of historical Uzbeks
Cell phone light showing the translucency of the quartz used along one wall.
Ceiling above Amir Temur’s mausoleum
Amir Temur’s mausoleum.
Amir Temur’s mausoleum.
Unknown mosque, but I liked the composition.
Merchandise for sale outside the Gur-i-Amir mosque.
Thank you for posting these wonderful photographs and for taking me along in your journey via social media.
You’re most welcome! I am glad so many can read this and see at once.
Love that predominant blue.
I saw that all over Morocco.
Super pictures.
Thanks, Simon. I’ve been told that blue is often used in art and architecture from the SW of North America to the Levant to the far east simply because it is the rarest of all colours we see in nature. Green is predominant, yellow abundant, brown and other ‘earth’ colours occurring naturally everywhere. But blue, not so much. Therefore, objects in this spectrum become sought after because of this rarity. It’s true there are blue flowers, but far fewer than other colours.